# Perennial: heat pump installation in Washington, DC > Ducted heat pump installation, replacement and furnace conversion in Washington, DC, sized from room loads at 14°F with DCSEU rebate paperwork lined up. URL: https://perennialdcheatpumps.com/ We plan and install ducted heat pumps for Washington, DC homes, sized room by room and fitted to the ducts, panel and permits your house already has. Rowhouses. Condos. Detached homes. Small commercial spaces. Built around DC homes, not a generic floor plan. [Neighborhood photograph credit](https://perennialdcheatpumps.com/image-credits.txt) What we install Ducted heat pumps Heating and cooling through the ducts you have, or ducts we adjust. Houses we work on Rowhouses to condos Basements, flat roofs, rear yards and hallway closets. Our typical range $8,000 to $18,000 A whole-home ducted installation before rebates; your written estimate sets the price. Rebate paperwork We line it up DCSEU forms, the AHRI certificate and permits, gathered as the job runs. Where we work All of DC Ten area pages, from Georgetown to east of the river. ## Sound like your house? Your outdoor unit is old, loud or needs another repair We replace it with a matched system: we recheck the heating load, look at the indoor coil and line set, and line up the rebate paperwork before installation day. How we scope a replacement You heat with a gas furnace and want to stop We plan the conversion first: backup heat, panel capacity and what happens to the gas line are settled before we order equipment. How we plan a conversion The top floor bakes and the basement feels clammy We check the airflow first, measuring returns, duct sizes and static pressure before anyone talks about a bigger unit. How we check airflow A renovation, an addition or a condo board changed the rules We start with your address: historic review, condo documents, front-yard public space and the permit path. How your address shapes the job ## Where will everything go in your house? In most DC houses the big decisions happen at the back: where the outdoor unit can sit, how the copper lines reach the indoor equipment and what the basement already holds. The numbers on the drawing match our notes beside it. Basement: what your house runs on nowEvery floor: how much heat each room losesRear yard: the outdoor unit and its clearancesRoof: the other common spot for the outdoor unitRear wall: where the refrigerant lines runGate or alley: how we get equipment in ### Heat pump installation: built around the house you have Explore heat pump installation #### What does your house run on now? Most DC homes already have something in place: a gas furnace with central air, an aging electric heat pump, or a rowhouse whose top floor never keeps up. At Perennial DC Heat Pumps we install ducted air-source heat pumps across Washington, DC, and we plan each one from your building. A ducted heat pump pulls heat out of your house in summer and draws it in from outdoor air in winter, then moves the air through one set of ducts. Your heating load, how much air your ducts can carry and the room left in your panel shape the job more than the brand does. We file the DOB mechanical or refrigeration permit before work starts. For systems up to 120,000 BTU/h the Class E refrigeration permit is $50.60, the fee only; historic, public-space and electrical reviews come in when your scope needs them. Read the buying guide #### How big a unit do you need? We size from a room-by-room heat loss and heat gain calculation, a Manual J style load, not from your square footage or the old unit's tonnage. ENERGY STAR's heat pump references for Washington, DC are 14°F for heating and 94°F for cooling, so those are the temperatures where our numbers have to work. The figure we care about is heat output at the winter design temperature. Nominal tonnage is rated in mild weather; the manufacturer's extended performance data shows what the unit still delivers on a cold January morning. Any gap below your heat loss falls to backup heat, and that shapes the electrical work. If your top floor runs hot, a bigger unit rarely fixes it. An oversized system short-cycles in mild weather and leaves muggy air damp, while the real cause is usually a weak supply run or a missing upstairs return. Read the sizing guide #### Where will the equipment go? We settle placement on site. A DC rowhouse may offer only a rear yard, a narrow side passage or a flat roof, and each one changes the line-set length, the drain route and how easy the unit is to service later. Our written estimate lists what comes out and what stays, the matched indoor and outdoor models, the electrical work and the permits. It also names the startup records you get at handover, such as refrigerant charge, measured airflow and control settings, so you can check the finished system against what we proposed. ### Heat pump replacement: is your old system near the end? Explore heat pump replacement #### Why are you replacing it? Most people come to us for one of three reasons: the outdoor unit has died or needs a costly compressor or coil repair, comfort and bills have drifted, or a renovation changed the house. Each one leads to a different scope, so we treat the old system's size as a clue, not the answer. We replace heat pumps in DC as a matched indoor and outdoor system, not a single box swap. On the visit we recheck the load, measure airflow through your existing ducts, read the panel and look at drainage and placement. A finished basement around the air handler or a new addition can take the job well past like-for-like. #### Can you keep your old indoor coil or lines? New home equipment uses lower global-warming-potential refrigerants that run at different pressures, with different oils and safety rules, than the systems they replace. That is why we rarely pair an old indoor coil with a new outdoor unit: a mismatched pair loses its rated efficiency. Line sets are a closer call. We look at diameter, condition, insulation and the manufacturer's rules for the new refrigerant before we decide to clean and reuse the lines or replace them. In a rowhouse with lines buried in a finished wall, that choice can move your price more than the equipment upgrade does. Our estimate names the exact matched pairing and its AHRI certificate. That certificate backs the rated efficiency, and DCSEU asks for it with your rebate application. Read the refrigerant guide #### Why do two estimates differ so much? Two replacement estimates can differ for honest reasons: one reuses the line set and the other replaces it, or one includes a new circuit the other leaves out. We list equipment, line set, electrical, permits, disposal and startup separately so you can compare line by line. Local labor is part of it. BLS reports HVAC mechanics and installers in the Washington metro earn a mean $35.45 an hour against $31.14 nationally, about 14% higher. A wage is not a billing rate, since the charge also covers insurance, licensing, vehicles and overhead, but it explains why national averages run low here. ## Will a heat pump keep up in a DC winter? A heat pump puts out less heat as the air outside gets colder, just when your house loses heat fastest. These are the DC temperatures we check every system against. Design references: ENERGY STAR. Normals: NOAA 1991-2020, Reagan National. ### Reading the scale - We check each model's heating output at 14°F, not just its rating at 47°F. - Normal January nights sit near 30°F, so your system spends most of the winter well above its design point. - From the mid-30s down you will see defrost cycles; a short cloud of vapor is normal, not a fault. ### Cold-climate heat pumps: will it keep up on the coldest nights? Explore cold-climate heat pumps #### How cold is too cold for a heat pump? If you worry a heat pump will fall behind on a January morning, the answer is in its cold-weather data. In Washington, DC we check heating capacity at ENERGY STAR's 14°F design reference against your home's heat loss at that temperature, not the size on the label. Variable-speed inverter compressors speed up as the temperature drops, so cold-climate models keep much of their rated heat well below freezing. The extended performance table, not the marketing name, shows real output and efficiency at each outdoor temperature. We recommend cold-climate ducted equipment where that table shows a clear benefit: a drafty older rowhouse, an all-electric conversion with little backup, or a detached house on an exposed lot. In a tight home with a small load, a standard variable-speed unit may already cover the design condition. #### Is that cloud of steam normal? Yes. In winter the outdoor coil runs below freezing and collects frost, so the system briefly reverses to melt it. A short cloud of vapor, a change in fan sound and a few minutes of backup heat indoors are all part of that cycle. Meltwater needs somewhere to go. NWS puts DC's average seasonal snowfall at about 13.8 inches. That is not a stand height, but the unit needs clearance from drifts and a drain route that won't refreeze on your patio or walkway, so we set the height from the site and the manufacturer's instructions. Backup strips should cover defrost and true shortfalls, not run every cold morning, and the thermostat lockout settings decide that. Constant ice on the coil, frequent auxiliary-heat alerts or rooms that never catch up point to a charge, airflow or sizing problem. Read the winter operation guide #### Do you need backup heat? Backup heat is a design choice with an electrical cost. Electric strips need their own breaker capacity, and that load can turn a simple install into a panel upgrade. With a strong cold-climate unit we can use a smaller strip for the few hours below the design temperature. ## Keep the furnace, or go all-electric? Outdoor unitRefrigerant linesIndoor coilFurnace or air handlerSupply ductsReturn air pathThermostat and controls ### Dual-fuel heat pumps: keeping the gas furnace as backup Explore dual-fuel heat pumps #### Should the furnace stay? If your gas furnace still has life in it, you may not want to pull it out. A dual-fuel system pairs a heat pump with that furnace: the heat pump handles cooling and most heating hours, and the controls hand off to the furnace below a set outdoor temperature, the changeover point. We install dual-fuel heat pumps in DC where keeping the furnace makes sense. It makes sense when the furnace still has useful life and passes inspection, when your panel would need a heavy-up to carry electric backup strips, or when a large, leaky house needs more heat on the coldest days than a sensibly sized heat pump can give. Keeping an aging furnace just because it is there only postpones a second replacement and keeps the gas service, with its monthly customer charge, on your bill. #### Which is cheaper to run, gas or electric? It depends on your rates and how efficient the heat pump is at each temperature. The DC Office of the People's Counsel calculator breaks Pepco's residential bill into a $17.09 monthly customer charge, winter generation around $0.102 per kWh, transmission around $0.018 per kWh and distribution around $0.034 per kWh above 400 kWh. Washington Gas has a $19.05 monthly customer charge, about $0.69 per therm for gas and $0.73 per therm for distribution, plus roughly $0.07 per therm for PROJECTpipes. Riders and taxes come on top, so we work from your own bills. Those numbers set the changeover point. As outdoor air cools the heat pump gets less efficient, and at some temperature a therm of gas costs less than the kilowatt-hours it replaces. We set the switch there, not at a factory default. Read the running-cost guide #### What we put in writing Our estimate states which furnace stays and its condition, how the controls talk to both units and the changeover setting. We are also plain about rebates: a dual-fuel system that keeps the furnace should not be expected to qualify for DCSEU's gas conversion tier, which asks for proof the fuel system was removed. ### Furnace conversion: getting off gas heat Explore furnace conversion #### What changes when the furnace goes? Moving from a gas furnace to an all-electric heat pump changes more than the box in the basement. An air handler replaces the furnace, the panel takes on a heat pump and backup strips, the thermostat changes, and condensate needs a drain in both seasons. We plan furnace-to-heat-pump conversions across DC as one coordinated job. Our visit sets the shape of it. A house with a gas range and dryer on an older service may need a heavy-up, and ducts sized for a furnace's hotter air may need bigger returns, because a heat pump delivers cooler air at higher volume. #### Go all-electric or keep some gas? An all-electric conversion removes the fuel system and relies on the heat pump plus electric backup; a dual-fuel setup keeps a gas furnace for the coldest hours. They are different projects with different panel loads, gas bills and rebates, so we price them as separate options. The rebate gap is real. DCSEU's current conversion tier pays $4,000 for an ENERGY STAR ducted heat pump replacing gas heat and $5,000 for Most Efficient equipment, and the application needs proof the fuel system was removed. Keeping the furnace generally means giving up that tier. If gas still feeds your range or water heater, the customer charge stays either way, which narrows the savings of a full switch. Only removing every gas appliance ends that monthly fee. Read the furnace comparison #### Will you be left without heat? Not if the steps run in the right order. Capping the furnace gas line, sealing or abandoning the flue and any chimney liner are separate tasks from the heat pump install, and a heavy-up needs its own electrical permit. We set who handles each step, and when, before we order equipment. ### Commercial heat pumps: heating and cooling a small building Explore commercial heat pumps #### How is your building used? A small office, shop or mixed-use building runs on a schedule. Occupancy, hours, kitchen or equipment heat and the outdoor air brought in for ventilation set the load more than floor area does, and a ground-floor shop with a busy door behaves nothing like the apartments above it. We take on commercial heat pump work in DC for ducted systems in small buildings, after we have assessed them. Chillers, large rooftop packages and other specialized central plants fall outside that scope, and we will say so at the start. #### Who signs off, and when can the system be off? Roof access, crane or delivery limits, tenant permissions and common areas shape the job. In a multi-tenant building, the lease and the owner decide who controls each system, and a tenant's comfort complaint starts the conversation but does not authorize replacing building equipment. We separate equipment replacement from ventilation changes, structural support for rooftop units and electrical upgrades, since each carries its own DOB permit. We agree shutdown windows with you so occupied spaces are not left without heating or cooling. #### How we price a building We price commercial work from the site visit: equipment count and type, roof and structural work, ventilation requirements, after-hours labor and access. Our residential range on this page does not apply, so compare proposals on the same operating requirements, exclusions and handover documents. *Three ways we can heat and cool your house through its ducts* | Question | Gas furnace plus new AC | Dual fuel: heat pump plus furnace | All-electric heat pump | | --- | --- | --- | --- | | Cooling | New air conditioner | Heat pump | Heat pump | | Winter heat | Furnace all winter | Heat pump most hours, furnace when it gets colder than the changeover point | Heat pump, with electric backup for the coldest hours | | Your gas account | Stays, with its $19.05 monthly customer charge | Stays, with its $19.05 monthly customer charge | You can close it if nothing else in the house uses gas | | DCSEU heat pump rebate | Not a heat pump project | We don't count on the $4,000 or $5,000 conversion tier | The $4,000 or $5,000 conversion tier, once we document that the gas heat is gone | | Electrical work | Usually the least | Moderate | Most: backup heat can need a heavy-up, which DCSEU supports with up to $2,000 | ## What's in our price, and what isn't Our typical range for a whole-home ducted installation or like-for-like replacement, before rebates. The written estimate after our site visit sets your price. $8,000 to $18,000 Inside the range - Matched outdoor unit, indoor coil or air handler, and controls - Standard refrigerant piping, condensate drain and electrical hookup - The DOB mechanical or refrigeration permit ($50.60) and startup checks Priced separately - Major duct rebuilding - An electrical service upgrade (heavy-up) - Roof work or hard-to-reach equipment - Structural changes and extra historic review Free planning tools Cost estimator Keep the base scope apart from work priced separately. Project assessment Turn what you know about the house into a starting brief. ### What will your project cost? Our typical range for a whole-home ducted installation or like-for-like replacement is $8,000 to $18,000 before rebates. The written estimate after our site visit sets your price. Where you land depends on capacity, efficiency tier, cold-climate rating, whether the line set is reused, where the air handler sits and how far the outdoor unit is from it. A long run from a rear yard to an attic air handler pushes toward the upper end. We price some work separately, from the site visit: major duct rebuilding, electrical service upgrades, difficult access or roof work, structural changes, historic-review complications, remediation and unusual duct layouts. Rebates come off afterward, as a reimbursement. Read the cost guide ### What should an estimate spell out? Our written estimate names the outdoor and indoor model numbers and the AHRI certificate that matches them, the heating capacity at DC's winter design temperature and the load calculation we sized from. A model name next to a total leaves the real decisions open. It also lists the line-set decision, duct changes, new circuits and any heavy-up, the DOB permits we line up, placement, disposal of the old equipment, startup records and exclusions. Missing items are where change orders come from. Lining two estimates up item by item usually explains a price gap faster than the totals do. If one replaces the line set and the other reuses it, ask what the reuse is based on. Read the proposal checklist ### Ducts, or a unit in each room? Ducted systems serve the whole house from one air handler through a duct network, while ductless units put an indoor head in each room and run lines through exterior walls. If your DC house has usable ducts, a ducted heat pump keeps walls clear and treats every room at once. Ductless suits additions, converted attics and radiator-heated rowhouses with no duct route, though visible lines on a facade can draw comments in historic review. We focus on ducted systems, so if your house has no workable duct path, compare ductless options separately. Read the distribution comparison ## Upstairs too hot, downstairs too cold? A DC rowhouse stacks three or four floors over a basement on a narrow lot. Here is where comfort problems collect, and where we look for each one. Supply runs in copper red, the return path dashed in blue. A planning drawing, not an installation plan. 1. Top floor: heat building up under the roof 2. Middle floors: long supply runs, weak returns 3. Main floor: the return grille and thermostat 4. Basement: air handler, ducts and damp air ### Heat pump ductwork: getting air to every room Explore heat pump ductwork #### Can you keep your existing ducts? Often, yes, but we measure before we say so. Heat pumps generally move more air than a furnace of similar output and deliver it cooler, so undersized returns, crushed flex runs and leaky joints show up as noise, weak rooms and high bills. On the visit we measure static pressure and airflow, check return sizing and look for leaks in attics and crawlspaces. If the numbers work, your ducts stay; if not, our estimate names the specific changes. We plan heat pump ductwork changes in DC, from a single added return to rerouted trunks, so new equipment gets the airflow it is rated on. Read the ductwork page #### Why is the top floor always hot? A DC rowhouse stacks three or four floors on a narrow lot between party walls. The ducts usually start in the basement or end in an attic, so one floor sits far from the air handler and the top floor sits under a sun-baked roof. That makes a hot top floor an airflow problem before an equipment problem. A dedicated upstairs return, balanced supplies, a second zone or a separate attic system can fix it, while a bigger outdoor unit generally does not. Access drives the cost. Running a new trunk through plaster ceilings means openings and repairs, so our duct plan says which walls or closets it uses and who patches them. Read the rowhouse guide #### Why does the house feel clammy? Washington summers are humid as well as hot, and a heat pump only pulls moisture out while its coil runs cold long enough. An oversized unit cools fast, shuts off and leaves the air clammy, while variable-speed equipment running long at low speed tends to dry the house better. Fan settings matter too. A slower fan in cooling, often sold as a dehumidify mode, pulls more water off the coil, and controls that respond to indoor humidity help in basements and lower floors. Some damp is outside the heat pump's job: a wet basement wall, a leaky crawlspace or a bath fan venting into the attic. Those need their own fix, sometimes a dedicated dehumidifier. Read the humidity guide #### What will the duct work cost? We price ductwork from the site visit: access, length, materials and how much finished space has to be opened. A return added in a closet is a small line item, while a new trunk through plaster ceilings is a project of its own. We list each change separately from the equipment. ### Air-handler replacement: when only the indoor unit needs replacing Explore air-handler replacement #### Is only the indoor unit failing? An air handler holds the blower, the indoor coil and usually the electric backup strips. Replacing it alone makes sense when your outdoor unit is newer and compatible, the blower motor or coil has failed, or a leaking cabinet threatens a finished ceiling under a rowhouse attic or closet. We scope an air-handler replacement against your existing outdoor unit, because the new coil must match it and its refrigerant to keep rated efficiency and an AHRI-listed pairing. If the outdoor unit uses an older refrigerant, we often recommend replacing both together. On the visit we check cabinet dimensions against the closet or attic hatch, return size, filter access and the drain route. A variable-speed blower can make the house more comfortable and quieter, but only when duct static pressure allows it. #### Will your smart thermostat work with it? A heat pump needs a thermostat that handles the reversing valve and staged backup heat. One set up for a furnace with central air may bring on the strips too early, skip the outdoor lockout or misread the reversing-valve terminal, and your electric bill shows it. Some variable-speed systems use their own communicating controls that talk to the outdoor unit and blower. A generic smart thermostat can reduce them to simple on-off stages and give up the modulation you paid for, so we match the control to the pairing. At startup we set and write down the auxiliary heat lockout, any dual-fuel changeover temperature and zoning dampers, so you know what normal operation looks like. Read the controls guide #### What else we check around the cabinet We look at the cabinet, return-air path and drain together. An attic air handler over a finished ceiling should have a secondary drain pan and float switch, and a closet unit needs a return large enough for the new blower. We list these separately from any wider ductwork job. ## Where can the outdoor unit go at your address? ### Is your house in a historic district? Historic status follows the address, not the neighborhood name, so we look yours up before we pick a spot. On a landmark or in a DC historic district, exterior equipment changes go through the Historic Preservation Office, which looks at how visible the outdoor unit and lines are from the street. Georgetown adds a layer: exterior changes visible from public space also go to the U.S. Commission of Fine Arts through the Old Georgetown Board under the Old Georgetown Act. A rear yard or a flat roof behind a parapet is often the simpler path. Front yards need their own check. Many DC front yards between the property line and the sidewalk are public space, so we settle the public-space question with DDOT before planning equipment there. Choosing placement before ordering avoids a review that forces a redesign. Read the historic-home guide ### Does your condo board have to sign off? In a DC condo, the declaration and bylaws decide who owns the heat pump, the line set and the roof or balcony where the outdoor unit sits. Equipment serving one unit is often the owner's responsibility, while the roof and exterior walls are common elements the board controls. So a replacement usually needs board or management sign-off for roof access, lifts, wall openings and insurance certificates, on top of the DOB mechanical permit. We start that request early, since boards approve on their own calendar. Condo owners can still get rebates. DCSEU's residential program covers individual condo and co-op units in larger buildings, under the same contractor and paperwork rules as a house. Read the condo guide ## What happens after you get in touch? Say you have a three-story brick rowhouse with a gas furnace in the basement and a 20-year-old air conditioner in the rear yard. An illustrative example of how we run a typical DC replacement, not a record of a completed job. ### You get in touch You tell us about the house, the equipment and what bothers you. A model number helps; a guess is fine. ### We assess the house We work out room-by-room heat loss at 14°F, measure static pressure at the air handler, check the panel load and find where the outdoor unit can go. ### We line up permits We line up the DOB mechanical or refrigeration permit ($50.60), electrical permits where circuits change, and Historic Preservation Office review if your address is in a district. #### Can your panel handle a heat pump? We start with the equipment's minimum circuit ampacity and the size of any backup strips. A load calculation on your existing service tells us whether the heat pump, strips, range and dryer fit together, or whether the house needs a heavy-up to 200 amps. The DOB fees are small next to the work: $22 for an instant general electrical permit covering new circuits and $64.90 for an instant electrical heavy-up permit. The real cost sits in the wiring, the panel and any meter or service changes. Rebates help here. DCSEU's associated electrical measures currently pay up to $2,000 toward a heavy-up to 200 amps and $400 per new circuit, up to three circuits, alongside a qualifying heat pump. Read the electrical guide ### Installation and startup The matched equipment goes in, the lines are pressure-tested, the charge is verified, airflow is measured and the backup heat lockout is set. We check each of those before handover. ### Handover and rebate We gather the model and serial numbers, the AHRI certificate and the paid itemized invoice for your DCSEU application, filed within 30 days. #### How much can you get back from DCSEU? DCSEU's current residential tiers run from $1,000 to $5,000: $1,000 for an ENERGY STAR ducted heat pump replacing electric heat and $4,000 when it replaces gas heat, rising to $1,500 and $5,000 for ENERGY STAR Most Efficient equipment. It is paid back after installation, not taken off at signing. DC buildings of up to four units qualify, as do condo and co-op units in larger buildings. The program requires a DC-licensed contractor and a DC Master Refrigeration and Air Conditioning mechanic; the application needs the DOB permit, AHRI certificate, paid itemized invoice and serial numbers within 30 days of installation. We gather those as the job runs. The federal 25C credit ended for equipment placed in service after December 31, 2025, so we leave it out. Income-qualified households can also look at DOEE's home electrification programs. Amounts change between program years; check dcseu.com. Read the rebate guide ## Questions about getting an estimate ### Do I need to choose a model before requesting an estimate? No. Tell us about the current system, the house and what you want to change. We pick the model after a load calculation and a look at your ducts and panel, since those decide which size and pairing fit. ### What information should I include in my first request? Your DC neighborhood or address, the current system if you know it, your main concern and any access limits such as a roof-only spot or condo rules. You don't need to diagnose the equipment; that is what our visit is for. ### Are safely taken equipment photos useful? Yes, once we have agreed how you will send them. A readable nameplate on the outdoor unit and air handler tells us its age and refrigerant. Please don't remove panels, climb onto a roof or go into an unsafe space to take a photo. ### Can a property manager submit a request for a building? Yes. Tell us the building, the equipment involved and who can authorize the work. Shared systems, roof access and tenant permissions often shape our scope as much as the equipment does. ### Can a tenant start an inquiry? Yes. Tell us the concern and who the owner or authorized decision-maker is. An inquiry doesn't give permission to alter the property, and DC permits and any rebate application run through the owner's project. ### Does submitting the form confirm an appointment? No. Your request tells us about a possible project. An appointment exists only once we have arranged it with you directly. ### Does an online budget reserve an installation date? No. A budget from our online tools is neither a quote nor a booking. We still need to see the property, and permits must be in place before installation. ### Can I correct information after sending a request? Yes. Keep a copy of your project details and send us the correction when we next talk about your request. You don't need an account to send an inquiry. ### Can I use the tools before sharing contact details? Yes. The cost estimator and project assessment show their results before asking for contact details, so you can explore the scope before deciding to get in touch. ### Can I request a written scope before choosing how to proceed? Yes. Our written estimate sets out the equipment, included work, permits, exclusions and responsibilities, so you can compare it with any other proposal before deciding how to proceed. ## Which part of DC are you in? DC planning-cluster geography. No office location implied. | Area | What changes the project there | | --- | --- | | [Capitol Hill](https://perennialdcheatpumps.com/service-areas/capitol-hill/) | Capitol Hill and Kingman Park historic districts: rear yard or alley side versus the roof, with Historic Preservation Office review | | [Georgetown](https://perennialdcheatpumps.com/service-areas/georgetown/) | Old Georgetown Board review of any equipment visible from public space, the rear of the house included | | [Columbia Heights, Mount Pleasant and Adams Morgan](https://perennialdcheatpumps.com/service-areas/columbia-heights-mount-pleasant-dc/) | Multi-story rowhouses, often split into flats; Mount Pleasant and Kalorama Triangle districts | | [Dupont Circle, Logan Circle and Shaw](https://perennialdcheatpumps.com/service-areas/dupont-logan-shaw-dc/) | Historic townhouses converted to condos: district review plus the condominium documents | | [Cleveland Park and Woodley Park](https://perennialdcheatpumps.com/service-areas/cleveland-park/) | Detached historic houses: side-yard placement and the 60 dB(A) property-line limit | | [Downtown, Navy Yard and Southwest](https://perennialdcheatpumps.com/service-areas/downtown-navy-yard-southwest-dc/) | High-rise condo units: which equipment the owner controls and what the building allows | | [Upper Northwest](https://perennialdcheatpumps.com/service-areas/upper-northwest-dc/) | Larger detached houses: zoned or two-system designs, attic air handlers, sloped lots | | [Petworth, Brightwood and Takoma](https://perennialdcheatpumps.com/service-areas/petworth-brightwood-takoma-dc/) | Porch-front rowhouses where the front yard is often public space; Takoma Park district | | [Brookland and Northeast](https://perennialdcheatpumps.com/service-areas/brookland-northeast-dc/) | Deep-lot detached houses beside rowhouse blocks: longer line runs versus short ones | | [East of the Anacostia River](https://perennialdcheatpumps.com/service-areas/east-of-the-river-dc/) | Semi-detached houses and garden apartments; the Anacostia district; income-qualified electrification as a separate route | All DC service areas Start with the house you have. Tell us what heats and cools it now and what you'd like to change.